The grating, raucous mewling of cats sounds overhead. A siege of cranes casts brief shadows. I’ve never known a bird to have so many voices. One moment, I’d swear they were crows, the next, tormented felines in heat. But the strangest of all is a clacking racket, like drumsticks on the rim of the drum, warning me as they stand guard in their massive nests.
Their presence is a constant in this seaside town, and I love to watch their effortless drift overhead as I lay, winter skin starved for warmth, drained of color, open and naked to the sky like a fileted fish.
I’m on the upper terrace of the two-story, whitewashed house that is home for another two weeks. Clouds, accompanied by a chilly breeze, roll across a merciless sun. I’ve been baked to done-ness. Any longer and the sizzle of my burning flesh would have driven me inside. The clouds have saved me. I smell rain.
Yesterday, I walked four miles. My destination: an art shop across the river in Portimao. From Ferragudo, that city is a luminous, shimmering confection, a distant Shangri-la.
The two miles to get there took me past hundreds of boats, a grazing horse, across a neverending bridge, and through impossibly narrow streets.
I finally arrived at Artisticline-Comercialização Mater.Desenho and stepped through the doorway into an alternate universe. Mouth agape, breathing halted, I stood transfixed by the explosion of creative energies surrounding me. This was far more than an art supply store. Better even than an art gallery, this was an artist’s dream. Canvases were on display everywhere done in acrylics, watercolors, oils, and charcoal. Others on easles were works in progress.
A polite Bom dia brought me, blinking, back to earth. Over the course of the next half hour, I made the acquaintance of Ana Cardoso, artist, art teacher, and proprietor of this corner of heaven.
If my right shoe hadn’t been too tight, I would have floated home in a bubble of wonder. Instead, I hobbled and limped the two miles back, ran a blistering hot bath, soaked my aching foot, massaged it tenderly, and promised myself a pair of bonafide walking shoes.
Tonight, I’ll be attending a fundraising dinner for the local charity thrift store. Everything in this secondhand shop is 1€ – approximately one US dollar. If I have an Achilles heel, one weakness that exceeds all other weaknesses, it is thrift shopping. This den of temptation is one block from where I’m staying. I have singlehandedly enriched the business, stopping by on a daily basis, and I never leave empty-handed.
Today I bought the outfit I’ll wear to the dinner tonight. 2€.
Oh! I will slip the snowy bonds of Earth And dance the skies on laughter-silvered wings; Sunward I’ll climb…
That isn’t quite how John Gillespie Mcgee begins his poem, High Flight I took liberties with the wording based on my circumstances. But in a few days, I will escape dreary Minnesota winter and fly to Portugal for three weeks.
My whole body tingles! A friend I met in Bali spent seven weeks of Covid in a house in Ferragudo in the Algarve region. Now she’s there again and I’ll be renting a room from her for my stay.
From the house, it’s a 7-minute walk to the beach. It won’t be swimming weather. The Atlantic seems to always be cold, and Portugal registers temperatures between 55° and 65° this time of year. But that’s perfect for meandering the endless coastline with sand in my toes.
A few days ago, I was researching the area and found a river cruise up the Arvade to one of the many vineyards in the region. I couldn’t book it fast enough! The tour of the vines, a premier wine tasting with a charcuterie board of local cheeses, meats, and sausages, and a visit to the barrel room, not to mention the 1 1/2-hour boat ride there, and another 1 1/2-hour back sounds absolutely divine. As I said, my whole body tingles!
I’ve decided this will be a trip of unlimited creativity. I packed a set of 72 pens that have a fine point at one end and a brush at the other.
I have my mixed media tablet ready for sketching.
My passport has been updated, my universal plug works all over the world, and the little book of passwords – I can’t forget that. I also bought new pens for journaling. You can never have too many pens!
I’ll have a carry-on and a backpack. I like to travel light.
My friend works at a thrift shop there. I can only imagine the kind of damage I’ll do to my Euros at that place.
As beautiful as the snowcovered Minnesota landscape is, after the initial rapturous day or two, I seek alternatives: friends in warm places, open escape routes, and as soon as something manifests…
I know it’s way, way too early, but I’ve been bitten by the Christmas bug and have started a frenzied accumulation of holiday decor.
Why now, I ask myself. Why at this particular point in my life have I suddenly become obsessed with Christmas? It has nothing to do with religion – I am far more Buddhist in my practices than anything else. But as darkness descends earlier, and daylight hides under a pallor of gray clouds, I’ve developed a voracious hunger for color and sparkle.
I blame this early obsession partly on the closure of Highway 169 through Aitkin, my familiar trail to the Twin Cities, and partly on Family Pathways Thrift Stores. On my recent trips to Minneapolis to see grandsons, I was forced to take Highway 65. Who knew that route was litered with golden thrifting opportunities right on the road in plain sight?
Bargain shopping is an addiction and I will not, under any circumstances, resist the urge to stop and peruse for treasures. The fact that I always find something wonderful feeds the demon.
I wasn’t familiar with Family Pathways Thrift, so when the sign appeared requiring a simple left turn at the light, my pulse quickened.
Just inside the door was a winter wonderland. Oh, my! Wreaths and garlands, baubles, trees, and ribbons, elves, candles, reindeer, strings of lights…a Cornucopia of Christmas paraphernalia, and I was hooked. Doomed. Thrilled!
I made a haul, got in the car, and twenty miles down the road, there! Could it be? Another Family Pathways!
Of course, I stopped and spent two more hours of sheer shopping bliss. If anything, there was even more abundance at that location.
I’m almost embarrassed to say, but I made a third stop. Heritage Thrift. I mean…it was RIGHT THERE! I could not in good conscience bypass it. I found a pair of beautiful leather boots, a sweater, scarf, and gloves.
What is usually a 3-hour trip from my house to my daughter’s, that day took 7 hours.
I never shop retail. Boring! I much prefer to be surprised. And I always get 3 or 4 times more for the dollars spent. Plus, the items I find are unique and special, like I said, treasures.
Thrifting isn’t for everyone. My daughters have made that perfectly clear. But it’s a harmless hobby, and I like the idea that I’m part of the recycling circle. When I’ve finished with the things I aquire that others have donated, I turn around and donate them again.
This last trip back from the Cities, 169 was open. Before I started home, I Googled Family Pathways and, sure enough, two of the towns I’d pass through had stores. Unlike my Hwy 65 route, I’d have to leave the highway. Did I care? Is the Pope Catholic?
Needless to say, I’m set for the holidays. As of today, my lighted, 6′ tree stands sentinel on the deck.
Is it terribly gauche of me not to wait until after Thanksgiving? Or at least until it snows?
My sister says her cilantro plants are starting to grow again. They’re outside! Who knows, snow may be a thing of the past. I’m not waiting.
Some days the excitement buoys me up, motivates me, inspires the energy to do things no 73-year-old woman in her right mind would touch. Here I am in the deep freeze of northern Minnesota, working physically harder than I’ve ever worked before, manifesting yet another dream.
I’ve been retired for twelve years. I finished building my house in Bali in 2015.
Wait.
That’s not true.
The skilled Balinese crew, men and women, created a stunning residence while I watched. I may have painted a wall, but other than designing the structure and the space, engaging myself in actual labor was against the law. I was required to pay Balinese workers to do it.
My home there was spacious and light-filled. It looked over a river valley dotted with tiled roofs, rust-red against jungle green. I could hear my neighbors chatting and laughing and I drooled over the scents wafting from their cooking.
Because of the pandemic, I hadn’t seen my children and grandchildren for two years. The pang of missing them sat in my body like wet cement. In September 2021, I was finally, fully vaccinated. I flew to the U.S. and reconnected with family. When it came time to catch the return flight to Bali, I couldn’t. Waves of memories of monkey trauma and loneliness wracked my nervous system.
I haven’t gone back.
Instead, I’ve spent the last 6 months in northern Minnesota on the family farm building another home. This time I’m fully engaged in the physical process. My body is regularly taxed to its limits and beyond. Working with my sister and brother-in-law, I’ve dug trenches for electrical cable, installed insulation, screwed sheetrock to the walls then mudded, taped, and sanded…
…sanding is nasty business!
I’ve foamed gaps, caulked crown and base moldings (up and down, up and down, up and down the ladder) and, with the immense help of my tireless sis and bro-in-law, laid laminate flooring all the while repeating the mantra…My body aches but not my heart.
Some days I used every ounce of willpower to make myself work, dreading the rigors of the task I’d left unfinished. What I judged would take a week, often took three or more.
Each phase of the project melted into the next, but plumbing was an ongoing puzzle. I have no well and my sleek, Separett composting toilet needs no septic system. A 50 gallon tank under the sink is the source of water. My brother-in-law mulled, sketched, erased, and watched one how-to video after another to come up with a workable system. He’s been installing it with the help of my sister while I marvel. I’ve seen lesser works of art in the MoMA and I told them so.
Then my sofa came and changed everything. It was softness in a harsh, backbreaking world of work. It was the beacon of hope, the light at the end of the tunnel, the promise that one day in the not-too-distant future I would live in comfort here.
Each time I set a move-in goal, the date arrived and passed. I’ve quit doing that. It will be when it will be – could I hope for Valentine’s Day???!!!
Building this house has become a project to live for. It’s made my body strong. I know my home from the studs to the electrical face plates and everything in-between – a more intimate relationship than I’ve ever had with anything alive or inanimate.
Now…
The fun begins. I get to shop for things I love that will enhance my 399 sq. ft. home. That will be so much more satisfying than the fortune I’ve spent on lumber, electrical wire, screws, and nails. I couldn’t believe the price of nails! Home Depot has been the go-to destination for all my purchases for months. I’m so ready for a change.
And for those who wonder how I’m faring in the deep freeze of a northern Minnesota winter after tropical Bali?
The experience surprised me. All I knew from living and working in Minneapolis pre-retirement, were endless months of dirty sepia. Here, 200 miles farther north, unbroken white undulates across open fields and meets a frosted black treeline. Soundless. Boundless. Reflecting the sky as it did this morning….
At minus thirty degrees, I dress for the weather and brave the cold.
It’s an adventure in a culture far different than Hindu Bali, a culture of rural farming and Scandinavian roots. It feels distantly familiar but mostly new since the last close contact I had with it was over half a century ago. The people have changed. I’ve changed. But the place has not. This farm was my father’s joy. His sweet energy permeates the land. It’s good to be here. Very, very good.
I’m addicted to the Tuesday Market in San Miguel de Allende. It is total sensory overload.
Sights bedazzle in a profusion of color. Tables mounded with clothing, jumbles of shoes piled high, cascading vegetables, fruits, woven baskets, serapes, electronics, tools, cookware, candy, makeup, toys, wigs, and handbags. Caged birds, bunnies, chickens. Flowers, handmade furniture…
…and sounds, a low burble of voices like ocean waves in the background. Strolling guitarists. Vendors yelling, Barato! Barato! Barato! to a chorus of chirpings, cluckings, and an occasional cockadoodledoo.
In the midst of that: Food.
Señors and señoras mixing, patting, grilling, frying, chopping, creating scents that tantalize, luring me to checkered cloth-covered tables with my plate overflowing. The air is chewable. Its drool-worthy aromas permeate every pore until the last shred of resistance succumbs.
When this food touches the tongue, long-dormant taste buds explode. The sauces, salsas, moles, the unique mixtures of herbs and spices, and the freshness of every ingredient, have made Mexcian food legendary throughout the world.
Do Not Touch signs don’t exist at the Tuesday Market. I cannot resist running my hands over exquisitely embroidered linens, absorbing the soft textures through my fingertips.
There’s a smaller version of Tuesday’s Market every Sunday. Some of the football stadium-sized structures sit empty.
There’s less congestion and fewer choices which isn’t always a bad thing. I’ve become a fan.
Last Sunday I went early and headed to the tables where dozens of scarves had been dumped in heaps. I love scarves and it didn’t take long for the world to dissolve around me as I focused single-mindedly on the hunt.
At one point I removed the glasses I wear for distance and hooked them in the V-neck of my shirt to better see the patterns up close. A tiny voice whispered Those aren’t very secure, you could lose them. I ignored it and continued my fevered searching.
After paying for the two treasures I found, I started to walk away. The distance was blurry. I reached for my glasses.
Gone.
Dismay buzzed through me. I rummaged through my purse and dumped out the contents of my shopping bag. Nothing. I patted down the front of my shirt, looked under the tables where I’d been standing, and started frantically ripping into the piles of scarves. In a combination of mime and frustration, I told the vendor what had happened. He, too, dug in, helping me look. By then, there were other people at those tables on their own personal mission. After a futile ten minutes, I gave up and left for home.
My emotions ran the gamut. I was angry at myself. Due to leave Mexico in ten days, I needed those glasses to navigate the massive Dallas/Fort Worth airport. As near-sighted as I’d become, deciphering gate numbers on the overhead boards to find my connecting flight in one of five terminals would be impossible. A shiver of dread replaced anger and dismay.
The next moment, laughter.
Truth was, I hated those glasses. I’d gotten them in Bali and specified to the optician that I needed correction for distance. When I picked them up, the young woman was delighted to explain that she’d made certain the glasses were not too strong so I could still see to read while wearing them. I felt irritation bubbling up. I could read just fine without glasses. I wanted to see leaves on trees and faces on people a block away. But, in true Bali-style, I swallowed displeasure, smiled, paid, and thanked her.
My distance vision was improved only slightly, and the frames I had chosen because they were lightweight and virtually transparent, were flimsy. But the purpose was served. As I transferred flights at multiple airports on my trip back to the States from Bali, I could see well enough to decipher signage.
From the beginning, my intention had been to get new glasses in Mexico. But I’d put it off. Now, with just ten days until departure, my hand was forced.
The joke was on me.
A tickle of excitement replaced dread. I searched online for optical shops in San Miguel. One had five stars and ten great reviews but the only pictures were of cute glasses – none of the shop itself. They had a Facebook page. I pulled it up and sent a message explaining the situation, asking if it was possible to get glasses before I left.
Even though it was Sunday and the shop was closed, within minutes I had a response. Come at 12:00 tomorrow and your glasses will be ready by Friday. Overjoyed, I typed in, Please make that appointment for me. I will see you at noon tomorrow. Thank you!
Even though Google Maps said it was an eighteen-minute walk I left the house at 11:00 a.m. My over-eagerness got me to my destination forty-five minutes early. I stepped through the open doorway into a space no larger than a walk-in closet and stopped. The gray upholstery on the three chairs lined up just inside the door was stained. Dingy walls hid behind taped-on pictures, notices, and advertisements that fluttered gently on breezes from the open doorway. Placards, a mirror, and miscellaneous clutter occupied every inch of the L-shaped, display-case countertops.
I’d seen optical shops at Luciernaga Mall. They resembled Visionworks, or America’s Best Eyewear in the U.S., modern, bright, and clean. But, I’d learned in Bali that businesses catering to ex-pats mimicked the slick appearance a foreigner would find comforting with pricing to match. Those that served locals always had a different aesthetic and more personal service at a fraction of the price. I proceeded into the shop.
A man and woman were seated behind the counter eating lunch. The woman stood as I approached. I told her I was there for my 12:00 appointment. I could see the man hurriedly wrapping his food. No! I said. Please eat. I’m early.
There were shelves of frames on the wall opposite me. I had just enough time to visually decide which ones I would try on before the young woman motioned me to join them behind the counter. I squeezed along the narrow space between the display case and the shelves of frames to reach the 3′ X 5′ exam area. It was only then that I realized the optometrist was in a wheelchair.
He was thorough and meticulously professional. When the examinations were complete I was told my glasses would be ready after 5 p.m. on Friday. I floated home, buoyed by happiness and relief.
Two days later, I set out for the big Thursday Market planning to locate the scarf vendor and see if my old glasses had been discovered. As much as I disliked them, it wouldn’t hurt to have a spare pair.
I arrived at the right location only to find that now it was occupied by electronics. I wandered until I found a couple tending tables arranged in a horseshoe shape covered with mountains of scarves. It was an area at least five times larger than the one I’d visited on Sunday, but they weren’t the same vendors.
To make certain my dilemma would be understood, I’d written the details in Spanish on a scrap of paper. I fished it out and handed the note to the woman. She read it and explained to the man what it said. They exchanged a few words. She told me to wait and returned a few minutes later to say that I should come back next Sunday. Those vendors weren’t here today.
I’d done what I could. I turned my attention to the hunt.
I like to systematically work my way from one end of the tables to the other. In this case, I had about six heaping yards of scarves to peruse. I was deep into it when, digging underneath, I touched something that shouldn’t be there and pulled out a black vinyl wallet.
Heavy.
I unzipped it and caught my breath.
Money. Lots of money.
There was no one around except the vendor man, and he was seated with his back to me, looking the other direction.
I have to admit, my first thought was to tuck that bounty (I estimated it to be about $500 US) into my bag and head for home. But my gut squirmed threateningly at the thought of keeping cash that wasn’t mine.
Minutes ticked and my mind raced. Nobody had visited these tables since I’d arrived so the item had to have been lost before I came. It was a woman’s purse – if I turned it over to the man I could just about guarantee it would never find its rightful owner. By this time I’d secured it in my bag and was innocently studying scarves. I decided that whoever had lost it would undoubtedly be back. I’d hang out there, minding my own business but watching for anyone who looked frantic. That seemed the best bet.
Forty-five minutes later, I’d reached the far end. Other shoppers had come and gone but no one had asked about a lost purse. I decided to rummage back through and see if I’d missed a particularly exquisite specimen when the woman who had helped me with my note approached. She said something in Spanish. In response to my blank stare, she whipped out her phone and typed into Google Translate then handed it to me. Did you find my black purse with money in it?
It was hers!
I smiled and nodded as I opened my bag, and said, Si, tengo. Yes, I have it. A strange look crossed her face when I handed it to her. She thanked me and I turned back to finish my task.
As always, I’d acquired a greater supply than I intended to buy. I weeded out a few, debated over one, a bold lavender and cream stripe, then discarded it and handed the others with the correct number of pesos to the woman whose wallet I’d found. She took the money, put the scarves in my bag, then paused. Slowly, she turned to where I’d tossed my cast-offs. Before I quite knew what was happening, the lavender and cream was in my bag. A gift.
As I walked down the mountain toward home, I pondered the strange abundance, the extra scarf in exchange for a butt-load of money. Again, I felt revulsion, the squirmy-gut nausea that had washed over me at the thought of keeping the lost purse. Bad karma.
The energy of this outcome was pure, clean, guilt-free. Dark thoughts silenced, the right choice had been made and rewarded. I had an extra scarf.
writing for self-discovery 
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