A Writers’ Fire

It’s dark. Quiet. Still. I stand at the street looking down on a small circle of men in white. Where is everybody? I check the time…7:45…I’m early.

There are hundreds of people in Ubud for the 2013 Writers’ Festival. A large percentage of them are the volunteers from around the world. They make this event possible. All of us are invited here tonight. Is Minnesota, U.S.A. the only place on earth where people arrive a bit early to make sure they’re on time?

I make my way, with some trepidation, down the staircase toward the gathering. As I approach I notice a person sitting on the sidelines. His brown shirt, pants, shoes, and stocking-cap blend with his skin. He’s invisible. He notices me and says hello, then smiles a mouthful of white teeth. He’s no longer invisible. He assures me that this is the right place and invites me to take a seat on the platform with the holy men.

Holy men are scary. They shouldn’t be. I’ve been hugged by an ancient holy man who was about a foot shorter than I am. But in Balinese hierarchy, a holy man is at the very pinnacle of authority.

with holy man

One of the men in the circle has noticed me. He nods. I nod back and smile. The next thing I know he is beside me, asking my name and where I’m from. This is standard procedure anywhere in Bali. Siapa nama anda? Di mana?

Pak Ketut takes me under his wing and informs me that this ceremony honors the Hindu diety, Agni, the fire god. The priests are busy preparing the altar, which by now is covered with flowers and fruit. I’m surprised we aren’t here to ask the blessing of Saraswati, goddess of knowledge and the arts. I ask Pak Ketut about it and he explains that Agni burns away all that is unwanted. The intention of this ceremony is to clear out whatever stands in the way of a successful, 2013 Ubud Writers’ Festival.

While I’m engrossed in Hindu Ceremonies 101, a few others straggle in. They join Pak Ketut and me and get the same questions, Siapa nama anda? Di mana? There is a woman from Singapore, one from Borneo, an Australian chap, and me. This time when invited to join the holy men on the platform we do so.

It’s 9 p.m. when the 8 o’clock ceremony commences. I should know this by now. Bali operates on jam karet, rubber time. Nothing ever starts when it’s supposed to. When time is attached to an event it’s a mere suggestion.  The Balinese possess an innate knowing and always appear en masse at the precise moment things commence. Or maybe things commence when the Balinese appear en masse?

There isn’t a full gamelan orchestra, but one of the men has cymbals. Another has a rattle. I notice now that all the holy men have some type of instrument. The officiating priest rings a bell and it begins. There is a cup of water and a folded banana leaf in a dish in front of me. I watch as the others dip the leaf in the water and pour it on their hands, cleansing them. Suda, sitting beside me, tells me if I touch anything besides rice during the ceremony, I must wash my hands again. I am reminded of this every time I take a photo. Suda points to the water and I dutifully wash.

There is a bowl of dry rice and a banana between us.

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A low tinkling begins. The priest chants in Sanskrit. Those in the group who can, echo the response. As the volume builds the fire is fed and becomes a dancing apparition in the center. The sound ebbs and flows. The music stops. In a grand finale lasting at least fifteen minutes, the priests incant. The sound crescendos to an abrupt halt and we all grab a handful of rice and throw it on the fire.

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The chant resumes and this performance is repeated over and over and over again. The rice in our dish is replenished many times. Then it stops.

We stand and form a circle. Very slowly, clapping a rhythm, our intimate little group of about twenty people, circles the fire. Then one-by-one we approach the holy man. It’s my turn. I kneel and incline my head toward him. He dips his finger in a mixture of oil and ash from the bowl sitting in front of him and with one finger, puts a dot of black over my third eye. When all have received their mark, food is distributed and it’s party time.

We open our neat packages to explore the contents. My new friends poke tentatively at the food while I dive in with my fingers and gobble the delicacies. Yum. We say goodbyes then Pak Ketut is there. “What do you feel about this ceremony?” he asks me as he makes a circle in the air with his arm then pats his chest. “What do you feel in here?” I pause. What do I feel? How has the night impacted me? And how do I communicate that with someone whose English is minimal. I open my mouth, not sure what will come out, but the words are there. “I feel special,” I said. “I feel special and blessed.” Pak Ketut beams. “Yes.” he says.

Together we have fed the fire. Bushels of rice and bananas smolder in the embers. Agni’s tummy is full and so is mine. Let the 2013 Ubud Writers’ Festival begin!

The Last Supper

My last Sunday Night BBQ in California is a hedonistic, humanistic extravaganza. But you’d never know it to look at the civilized table.

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I’m hanging with a heady crowd. These people have multiple degrees, speak too many languages, and love to party. Hanna’s from Taiwan. She owns a tech company and solves computer glitches.

She arrives an hour early, laden with vegetables and protein.  Her chicken, pork, and salmon have marinated in exciting sauces overnight. The prawns bask in a mixture heavy with orange zest. Exquisite! She preps the grill, issues orders to her sous chefs, (we know our place), and Sunday Night BBQ is underway!

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Hanna’s a wizard with vegetables. Corn husks are peeled back and the ears smeared with a pesto garlic butter. Husks replaced, they’re secured in foil, and, excuse me while I wipe the drool off my chin! Then she slices tomatoes in half, scores the tops, and presses a wicked mixture into them that, once grilled, turns an ordinary tomato into a sophisticated to-maah-to, daaahling!

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I’ve had her grilled artichokes, parsnips, potatoes, onions, sweet potatoes, and pineapple, I think!

The fact that I don’t know for sure about the pineapple is Melody’s fault. Alcohol is Mel’s domain. If I never have another drink it’s okay. I’ve exceeded my lifetime quota in just two months here. Tonight it’s an exotic frozen daiquiri, with lethal amounts of rum, served with the appetizers.

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While waiting for the food to cook, the back porch conversation sizzles hot and steamy. Topics range from Syria, Fukushima, and the mysterious herbs used in Ethiopian cooking, to ethnic sensitivities, among other things, which makes total sense in a gathering where none of us are of the same people group.

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Later in the evening, Annette, Melody, and Devon break into a tirade of French. Then it’s Spanish…Annette may have Ecuadorian roots, but we were well into the wine by then so maybe it was Peruvian, or Brazilian…anyway, she speaks Spanish really, really well.

And remember Aaron?

P1040631He’s the musician who lives in the little house in the back yard. His band plays all over the world, including Bali. After the babbling in French and Spanish, during which Aaron, Hanna and I, make inappropriate comments whenever it seems appropriate, Aaron disappears. In moments he’s back with an assortment of percussive instruments. He takes the lead, establishes a rhythm, and we rock the house.

Music is the universal language. Shaking my maracas in syncopated bliss, I scan the faces around me, radiant, smiling. Our bodies move to the beat. Then we’re singing, Don’t worry…about a thing…’cause every little thing…gonna be alright… we veer off, adlibbing new words, whatever comes to mind. We rap, reggae, and revel in the camaraderie.

How did I get so lucky? Melody and her house was a Craigslist find, a place to touch down for two months while I tend to the minutia of wedding preparations. I expected nothing more. What I got was a home with a heart, a place in a vibrant community, help with wedding projects, and a steady stream of amazing characters, many of whom will be friends for life. What is this magic bubble I’m traveling in where everything I touch turns to love?

Facelift

Korean Woman

fashdloops.com

“Have you had a face lift?” the beautiful Korean woman sitting across from me, asked. I had just met her. More than a little surprised at the personal nature of the question, I stuttered a quick, “No.” Then peering at her perfect skin and guessing her to be about thirty, I asked, “have you?”

“Oh yes,” her nod added emphasis to her words, “and I would strongly suggest you should too.” It was all I could do to keep from spewing my mouthful of tea in her flawless face.

My website, however, was in need of a little nip and tucking. After all, it has matured and now knows who it is and what it’s about. But my face? Not a chance. I like what Victor Hugo said: Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human face. And isn’t that the truth? No matter how wizened, toothless, and gnarly, a smiling face is always beautiful.

Are You a Dream Catcher?

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If you lose your dream, you lose the force that propels the universe forward
on your behalf. Don’t doubt it for a minute. It’s 100% true.
Dreamcatcher by xxluulixx.deviantart.com

Dreamcatcher by xxluulixx.deviantart.com

*Some people have forgotten how to dream.

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Some have a dream but cannot imagine achieving it.
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Dream Catchers have both imagined and achieved what they want in this life.
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They have one quality that others lack.
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My daughter, Joy, says they’re fearless, but that’s not true. They’re just as terrified as the rest. The difference is the fact that they don’t allow fear to stop them from doing that thing that calls them. They know that not pursuing their dream is a compromise, a decision to live someone else’s life instead of their own.
That was in my heart today as I thought of you.
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Rockin’ to a Zydeco Beat

Aaron stuck his gorgeous head through the kitchen window. “It’s my birthday Sunday,” he smiled. “I’m having a bbq in the back yard if you wanna come.” A bigger smile. “There’ll be music and food, poetry…”

Okay. I’m in. Not only is Aaron the cutest thing since the Ken doll, but he’s a brilliant musician.  And he lives in the mother-in-law house in the back yard. “What can I bring?” I asked in typical Minnesota potluck fashion.

“Do you have an instrument? Or a poem?”

Do I have a poem? Is the Pope still Catholic?

This is North Oakland. A block away is Berkeley. The neighborhood rocks with color and vibe. Aaron rocks with color and vibe! So Sunday morning I scanned my provisions and put together a chicken avocado salad to share with other guests. Around 3:30 I could hear happy sounds wafting through my open windows. What was that…an accordion? Definitely drums… I grabbed my salad and strolled into the back yard.

Suddenly I was back in Bali. It was a hodge-podge of people from toddlers to older folk, and nationalities that spanned the globe. It was community. Angelique and her little angel were crafting graffiti on the fence.

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So were Dubonwi and Larry.

P1040609P1040613Summer stenciled blue paint around a giant leaf from Aaron’s garden while also manning the bbq.

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P1040614Jimmy sat next to his wife who had dressed in pink bunny ears for the occasion. He swore that he didn’t know her but the twinkle in his eye said otherwise.

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Their son, Mali, remembered me. He had passed me on the sidewalk while I was walking. He was skateboarding. I remembered him because he said, “Hi!” as he went past. I said “Hi!” back, both surprised and impressed. But after meeting his mom and dad…not surprised but still impressed! They are the friendliest folk!

The table groaned with food from all ethnicities.

Aaron passed out instruments that he had harvested from who knows where! Anything that could make a sound had been commandeered for the occasion. I saw an egg beater, a very large cowbell, a metal dish drainer, and a can filled with something noisy, like rocks. That was my instrument of choice.

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I-dream-of-Jeannie, a vision in polka-dots and a sassy red hat, played masterfully on the accordion. The music swelled into the air and suffused the neighborhood with syncopation. We rocked. The poetry was rap, spontaneous, bawdy, and sometimes sweet, paying tribute to Aaron on his special day.

P1040617Here’s the man himself, Aaron, on the box drum, world-class musician beating his little 33 year old heart out.

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Aaron has played in Bali. He’s seen the traditional performances. I was aware that a group of guys had gathered behind me but, deep in conversation, I paid no attention. Then it was kecak, a wild, Californianized version of male voices simulating the background chorus for the Ramayana saga. The force of that familiar sound stopped my heart.

What are the chances? Really, what are the chances that I would find kecak in my back yard in Oakland, California? It seems, like everything in my life, the chances are very good. The flow of energy, the aligning of experiences that bring joy, the magic of synchronistic happenings no matter where I am, has become the norm. I blinked away tears and allowed gratitude to once again flood my being.

Happy Birthday, Aaron. You are a gift.

A Violent Spirituality

Map_indonesia_volcanoes
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The 17,000 islands that form Indonesia are located in the Pacific Ring of Fire. They’re peppered with volcanic mountains and shudder under frequent earth tremors.
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pulaweh

 

This week, Paluweh on the very small island of Palu’e, east of Bali, erupted. Its incessant rumbling over past days alerted officials who evacuated most inhabitants to the nearby island of Flores. Six lives were lost.

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Even though the map lists only two volcanic mountains on Bali, there are at least six. Mt. Agung last erupted in 1963-1964. Mt. Batur in 1968. The others have been dormant for hundreds of years. Hot springs dot the calderas of these sleeping giants, and a geo-thermal plant harvests the power from fiery regions below Mt. Bratan’s crust.
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Earth’s dynamic unrest in this part of the world drives the energetic spirituality of Bali. The regions beneath the island paradise hold tremendous power. The Balinese understand, and daily tend to the balancing of energy through their rituals and offerings. They open their arms to spiritual practices from around the globe, and while the earth seethes, the air above vibrates with the hum of prayers, the movement of dance, and the ecstatic clang of gamelan.
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I’ve noticed that mindfulness is easier in Bali. Being present is a way of life. Gratitude soaks into the pores and becomes perpetual. I’m struck by the differences now that I’ve been in the States for a few weeks. Now that jet-lag has passed, and culture shock has subsided to a degree, and my emotions have stabilized, I can think logically about what it is that feels so absent, what gets in the way of connection.
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It’s the veneer. There’s a glossy coating on people in America that separates us. Maybe it’s competition, or power. Maybe it’s privilege, or sophistication, or make-up! But we’re isolated. Even walking down the sidewalk with hoards of others, we’re so alone. We are the casualties of progress, of technology, of narcissistic self-absorption.
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In Bali I don’t go 10 steps without an interaction. Maybe it’s nothing more than a taxi driver on the street offering his services, but someone has spoken to me and I have the option to respond and thank him and inquire about his day. I have the option to connect. I find I like that. I need that. And I take advantage of those opportunities. It has opened the door to a different kind of life. The taxi drivers remember. They stop offering “Taksi!” and instead say “Good afternoon, how are you today?” and we visit for awhile.
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The fragile brevity of life calls for more than just going through the motions. In the shadow of Mt. Agung, regal, serene, but deadly when aroused, there is a creative force that supports authenticity. It beckons, like these words by Rumi: “Come, come, whoever you are, wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving. It doesn’t matter. Ours is not a caravan of despair. Come, even if you have broken your vows a thousand times. Come, yet again, come, come.”

Shedding…Flick!

Strip away
Strip away
Strip away…
Shed memories like dirty socks.
Flick old photos
into the trash
one after another…
birthdays
holidays
vacations…
Oh! I remember…
pause…
Flick!
Gone.
 
There is a NOW
that screams for attention.
It wants no hooks
in the past.
It is lusty,
full of spark and fire,
juicy with life.
It has no room
for regrets
or dismal might-have-been’s.
 
I pack one bag
with new clothes
and shut the door behind me.
Goodbye isn’t necessary today.
I’ve already said them all,
one for each photograph…
Flick!
 
Sherry Bronson
August 2, 2013
 
Moving on
photo: vikrampyati.blogspot.com

What We Keep, or…Don’t Pack the Surge Protector!

The Bali Advertiser is a popular newspaper for the thousands of ex-pats living on the island. This month they pubished a feature article I wrote with the same title as this post. Click on Bali Advertiser and it will take you to their website. Then click on the issue that appears in the center of your screen and page through until you come to the article covering page 57.  Or, better yet, you can read it right here…

WHAT WE KEEP…OR,  DON’T PACK THE SURGE PROTECTOR!

When stakes are pulled up and a new life is launched, what comes along? There’s always baggage, tangible and intangible, but I’m talking prized possessions. What carries the emotional weight to be considered worthy of a spot in one’s new existence? Wedding china and crystal?  The mahogany dining table that seats twelve…comfortably?

Our stuff tells a story. But the belongings that are carried with us into a new start, a life transition, hold volumes of information. The energy contained in each accompanying treasure comes heavy with memories. Those that promote the path chosen over the one left behind, are valuable affirmations of who we are and what we want. But sometimes the things hauled along are symptoms of a lack of trust, an inability to let go.

I am reminded of the story of a man sitting by the side of the road. A traveler came by and asked him, “What are the people like in that village up ahead? I’m thinking of living there.” The man looked up at the traveler and said, “What were the people like in the place you left?”  “They were wonderful,” the traveler replied, “Helpful and friendly.” The man smiled, “You’ll find the people here are pretty much the same.” The traveler went on his way. Soon another traveler came by and asked the man, “What are the people like in that village up ahead? I’m thinking of living there.” Again the man said, “What were the people like in the place you left?” The traveler scowled, “They were back-stabbing, busy-bodies. I couldn’t wait to get out of there.” The man nodded, “You’ll find the people here are pretty much the same.”

Wherever we go, there we are. There’s no escaping ourselves. P1030207But I’m fascinated by the things we keep, sometimes boxed up, collecting dust in a dark closet, sometimes in a climate controlled vault, untouched, seen only by the attendant during a routine check. Even I, minimalist that I’ve become, brought some things with me when I fled the sub-zero misery of the American Midwest. Some are supportive of my journey. The small, brass temple bell from Unmunsa, a Buddhist Monastery in the mountains of South Korea, speaks to me. Its clear voice is a call to meditation, the joyful reminder of a moment on the pathway toward awakening. The worn patina hints at something more permanent than my life.

Frame DrumOn the other hand, the elk skin on the frame drum from a shop in Seattle turned immediately flaccid as it drank from the drenched Bali air. Its rich percussive vibrations are a distant dream. But all is not lost. I keep it for its decorative value. And it holds images of my youngest daughter, golden hair and shades, showing me the ‘gum wall’ and Fisherman’s Wharf, as we walked that city together one memorable day.

I found the antique French field binoculars in a consignment boutique and fell in love. They were of absolutely no use in my old life. But they called to me. It was as though I knew they would enhance my experience in an undreamed future. Here they zoom in on exotic birds, butterflies, or workers in distant rice fields. They bring closer the beauty and bounty of Bali that feeds my soul.

??????????But the most impressive come-along, taking up two-thirds of the space and weight allowance in my luggage, was the Texas Mean game. My parents were introduced to it in that state on a winter sojourn there. They returned with a pattern for the board. Over the years dad produced countless reproductions for friends and family in his workshop. Now, 90 years old, he still plays, and more often than not, wins this competitive game.

It posed a problem, however. The solid wood board was too large. No amount of angling it crosswise, or forcing it into the expansion area of the suitcase, would allow the zipper to close. I was bemoaning that fact to a friend. “Let me see it,” he said. A day later my board returned, sliced, hinged, and modified. It fit.

What is the energy carried with me in these possessions? It’s like Soren Kierkegaard, the Danish philosopher, said, Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards. Reflection reveals much. The bell speaks of mystery, travel, adventure. It holds visions of cherry blossoms, clouds of them, drifting onto the path like snow, and monks in gray robes, single file, entering the temple. It calls me inside, to the spiritual part of myself that is ever evolving. It is the essence of who I am and what I love.

The drum is my heart, symbolized. It is soft now and pliable with the freedom, hard won, to be exactly what it wants to be. All those years it did its duty, pounding out the cadence on command, holding steady the rhythm of life. Here, in Bali, my heart beats reggae. It aligns with the hammering of gamelan. It releases me to dance.

The binoculars are 1800’s vintage in mint condition. What sights have they seen? What stories do they hold in the lenses of their glass eyes? When I put them to my face and watch butterflies circling, circling, in their intricate mating dance, they are warm in my hand. They bring me close-up to view the intimacies of another world. It is a deeper way of looking, a poetic way of watching.

And Texas Mean? There are memories of hundreds of games over the years. There is the warmth of family sharing laughter and friendly competition. There is the random act of kindness by the dear one who saw a solution to the size problem and fixed it. Gratitude is too small a word.

But best of all, my Balinese friends love the game! The fact that there is an image of a fierce Native American dead center, and teepees in each corner, doesn’t faze them. To them, it’s “The Fighting Game” and believe me, they know how to strategize and work the odds. We have spent many nights whooping and hollering, like natives on the warpath, as one or another of us gains the advantage. It dissolves differences in culture, language, and custom. It reduces life to play, and we’re all equal in the game.

???????????????????????That’s about it, the laptop, the camera, those are essential to my work. But…oh yes, there is one other thing. It sits in the bottom of my otherwise empty suitcase in the dark, out of sight, out of mind, an embarrassment. It’s a giant surge protector with outlets for at least 8 electrical plugs. Paranoid about my new computer equipment, wanting to protect it, I stuffed the monster contraption with its thick, inflexible cord, into the luggage next to the Mean Game. It was the first thing I pulled out when I arrived in my new home. I found the correct adapter, plugged it in and attached the unit. There was an instant pop and a blinding flash that shut down the power in most of the banjar for several hours. Actually, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it scared the living daylights out of me!

It’s interesting as I ponder these things I brought from the old life. The ones that have love attached to them have grown even more precious. And I treasure them especially because they are few. But the unwieldy surge protector, packed out of fear and a mistrust of the unknown forces of power in my new place, backfired. I can’t even give it away. Nobody needs it here. It will just end up taking precious space and pounds out of my quota on some visa trip back to the States.

The unknown forces of power I should have feared are the ones that bring me face to face with myself. Bali is a playground for those energies and I am her playmate. Bewitched by the Siren call, I was lured from my complacent existence to her green embrace. The kindness she bestowed on me, with my strange white skin and pale eyes, left me with a fierce yearning to be with her, always.

So I divested myself of the accumulation of a lifetime, not bit by bit, but in one wild purge. It was a glorious release, mentally, physically, and emotionally. I let go of a life that no longer served me, if truth be told, had never served me. The few things I kept, the treasures that made it into my luggage, were gifts from me to me. They were promises made during difficult times that assured me of a different future. All, that is, except the surge protector. That was my stab at security, my insurance policy. In throwing caution to the winds and moving to the other side of the globe, that surge protector would ensure that my electronic connections to family and friends would be safe.

And Bali would have none of it. “You’re mine!” she thundered as sparks flew from the incompatible connection. “Yikes!” I shrieked back at her in shocked surprise. It was a lesson, harsh and immediate. She wasted no time allowing me to bask in any silly illusions I might have harbored. “Trust,” she said, her message as clear to me as if it were carved in stone.

My technological equipment thrives on Bali’s current, and so do I. She knew we would. And trust is no longer an issue. If I’m ever prone to doubt, a vision of a rogue surge protector, deep in the bowels of my luggage, comes to mind. I feel the sting of her reprimand afresh and doubt dissolves. We have an understanding, Bali and I, and as long as she has her way, all is well.

Hard Headed Woman

Here is not so different from anywhere else. This is the first line of a poem I wrote once. The rest of it is long ago forgotten. But I wrote it before I knew Bali, and here IS DIFFERENT. The air is different. The opportunities are different. The language is different. And the people…ah, the people!

I met Wayan on my very first visit to Bali. Back then…way back then…she worked at Pertinen Spa and gave me the best massage I’d ever had in my life. When I came back two years later, I looked her up and treated myself to her ‘magic hands’ again and again. We became friends. Then I met her husband, Komang, and their son, Arya. First I was invited to their home, then to special ceremonies, then to Arya’s birthday party. They adopted me as one of their own, and when a Balinese family adopts you…it’s hard to explain. We don’t have anything quite like it in the U.S. It is assumed that they get to tell you what to do!

That’s why, when Wayan started her own business, Jiwa Raga Spa and Wellness, I became the poster child (I use the term loosely!) I tried loudly and long to convince her that she needed someone young, supple, unwrinkled at the very least. She would have none of it. One day she simply announced that she was coming to pick me up for the photo session. End of conversation. If you’re ever in Ubud, go to Jiwa Raga. I’m bigger than life on banners, posters, the spa brochure…it’s my one claim to fame. I told Wayan she was a hard headed woman. She agreed.

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Recently Wayan told me she would come and spend the night with me soon and she would make dinner. Because it’s difficult to plan exact dates in Bali (you never know when the banjar will need help with a cremation or special ceremony) I was pretty sure it would be spur-of-the-moment. So one evening, Wayan, Komang and Arya appeared at my door with groceries and Wayan set about making mie goring. It was delicious!

After the meal Komang announced that he had a special treat and disappeared into the kitchen. The next moment he came out carrying small bowls. “Lemon ice!” he said. He had watched a chef at one of the high-end restaurants in Ubud make it. “I copied him,” he admitted. It was delightful! Wayan told me she had brought treats for breakfast, too. I could get used to house guests like these!

In the morning we gathered around the table in our jammies and enjoyed coffee and  Wayan’s special rolls stuffed with strange ingredients. Some had meat in the middle, some were apple jelly I think…they were very tasty with our coffee. Then it was time for them to go to work.

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The handsome dude in the blue shades and matching jacket is Arya. Daddy Komang adusts his helmet and Wayan observes from behind. Then with hugs and goodbye’s they were on their way.

Family life in Bali is communal. In many cases, the sons remain in the family compound, bring their wives there, raise their children, and care for their aging parents. The family belongs to the banjar, a community of a few hundred people, and they have obligations to that group. Said obligations run the gamut and are based on Hindu ceremonies, rituals, and celebrations. The Balinese experience is completely opposite that of the isolated family unit in the West. So what I expected was based on my experience. What I got was based on theirs, and that’s the story of my life here as it becomes increasingly interwoven with the lives of my Balinese friends.

The vast differences always come as a surprise. I tell myself that by now I should know better, but the programming of my upbringing leaves a powerful imprint, as does my country of origin. I was born to privilege and entitlement just by virtue of being a citizen of the most powerful nation in the world. When I decided to live somewhere else, I came face-to-face with that truth and it has humbled me. I am grateful to Wayan, and Komang, and Arya. They are my teachers, as are my other wonderful Balinese friends. And I’m a slow learner, but ‘better late than never’ as the saying goes!

Arak Attack!

I have to write this quick, before I sober up and refuse to admit that I’m subject to such excess. Tonight I ordered a glass of Balinese rice wine. Brem. It comes in red or white. “I sorry, no have,” the wait staff was apologetic. I perused the menu, searching for an alternative. Beet juice, turmeric and ginger, lime fizz…nothing quite does it when all you really want is Brem.

Bali has another alcoholic drink. It’s notoriously potent. As I scanned the options I saw that Arak was one of the offerings in the extensive list. “Well, why not,” I said to myself. “No Brem…I’ll try Arak.” For the sake of the story, you need to know that I ate papaya for breakfast. Later in the day I had a slice of whole grain bread and a cup of coffee. So when I started sipping my glass of Arak with a little lime juice squeezed into it, the time was about 5:00 p.m. After two swallows I knew I had alcohol in my system. I was there to discuss joint business opportunities with a new contact.

Within 15 minutes a stunning young woman wearing a scarf that identically matched her crystalline blue eyes, arrived. She ordered the beet juice so I distinctly had the advantage. I was far wittier, more brilliant, and knowledgeable about life, love, (or is that liberty?) and the pursuit of happiness than anyone else she could ever have possibly met. However, I’ve been around awhile and I know my limitations. When my lips go numb it’s time to shut my mouth. So I did, and listened. Over the next two hours I sipped, listened, nodded, and sipped a bit more. She was delightful. We exchanged cards and she departed to keep a dinner date with her husband.

I sat as dusk gathered. The wait staff brought out candles and the tables flickered in the evening glow. I ordered a Greek salad. It arrived, neatly wrapped to take out, and I stood to leave. My eyes crossed. I took a step, stopped, focused, and took another step. I felt like two people, one of whom was stone cold sober, observing and aware of what needed to be done, and the other quite decidedly fuzzle headed and not firing on all cylinders. The two of us had a quick pow-wow and it was agreed that the stone cold sober one would walk us home. Thankfully it wasn’t far and she did a good job. Once inside the house, the full Arak attack took over and fuzzle head wasted no time. She fumbled with the knot securing the bag of salad, tried to remember where the forks were kept, and settled for a soup spoon.

I don’t drink much. One beer, one glass of wine, and I’m good. But all alcohol is not created equal, and let’s just say, Arak is in a league of its own. I’m glad I tried it. The closest thing to it, in my limited experience, is Scandinavian Aquavit…nasty stuff that should be outlawed or just used in place of diesel fuel. Arak doesn’t bite. Arak just slips down with a cozy burn. But it should come with one of those cautionary FDA labels…take only with meals…do not drive or operate heavy machinery. And I would add, WARNING: may cause temporary fuzzle-headedness!

 

Arak Production

Arak Production

 

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